Thursday, January 28, 2016

CUBA LIBRE CHRONICLES

22 Dec 2015 - Tuesday - MKE to Memphis


Three days before Christmas and what could be better than to start a boat adventure with a road trip?  In my mind? Not much!  I personally have never been a slave to holiday convention, my Dad being a fireman for the city of Milwaukee for 25 years, so we celebrated whichever holiday whenever he was not working. Missing a holiday by a day or two or three was no big deal in our family.  In some families, however, it is a very big deal.  I learned that lesson many, many years ago when I convinced Kristine to accompany me to Thailand for a three week vacation that just happened to fall over Thanksgiving.  She had spent every Thanksgiving of her life celebrating with her family or with the Brother and Sister-in-law at their magnificent Thanksgiving Dinner Extravaganza.  Tradition or not, she agreed to go with me and we spent that particular Thanksgiving dining in a famous outdoor restaurant abutting the Golden Triangle in Chang Mai, Thailand near the border with Myanmar, nee Burma. As in many South East Asia restaurants, the day’s fresh ingredients were on display in large woks as one passed into the dining area proper.  Kristine’s eyes relayed her horror as large insects and big bugs were the main course in several of those huge wok pans.  Her First Thanksgiving Dinner away from family was going south fast.  Rushing her past the last few display woks we ultimately tasted and savored several spectacular dishes but she never got up the courage to sample the deep fried larvae.  When Kris relayed the day’s events to her rellies, her brother and sister-in-law did not speak to me for months afterwards.  Not only had I absconded with her to violate their life-long tradition but I forced her to eat bugs on a hallowed holiday!  

Times have changed since the close-knit family of her youth has been severely depleted by age and today, leaving before Christmas Holiday was her first choice.   And so, after packing Oreo off to my son’s house, loading the Mini Cooper well beyond any reasonable load limit, we pointed the car south towards Memphis, our first stop.  Situated on the eastern bank of the Mississippi River, the city has several claims to fame other than Graceland. Thanks to our good friend Chuck’s Memphis cousins, we were admonished to not miss three of them.  

Logo of distinction needs explanation
First, the Peabody Hotel, an elegant old dowager with a rooftop attraction and a 360 degree view of the heart of the city.  The roof top attraction was the gilded glass enclosure (aka “duck palace”) for a small flock of ducks who march through the hotel lobby every day at five o’clock to the patio.  Following a uniformed bellhop, they start on the roof, trail him onto the elevator, exit on the first floor, waddle resolutely behind him through the packed bar and lobby amid the stares and camera flashes of a standing room only crowd of tourists to their early evening spa.  To say pampered would be a gross understatement. 

Off to the roof
 
We should all have a "duck palace"
The second “do not miss” entailed my favorite event…  food intake.  The Rendezvous is an old time Memphis BBQ legend.  One can find good BBQ throughout the southern half of our country (and some places north of the Mason –Dixon line) but one should NEVER pass up the opportunity to experience a “legend.”   Picture taken just prior to letting out my belt one more notch. 

Rendezvous deserved the "legend" sobriquet
 It is a short walk to famous Beale Street and the raucous mixture of Memphis blues and country music emanating from the myriad bars lining both sides of the street.  The vision of this window display of fanciful toilet seats would haunt us in Havana.
Cover up

 The New Orleans Latin Quarter immediately came to mind. As luck would have it, we were able to discover a couple of cold draft beers, two warm barstools and a hot country band on stage.  
Selfie aim distorted by beer intake volume

Beale Street after closing
Not a bad way to spend the first night of one’s sea passage, even if it was “only” 60 degrees this late December night!.   We Yankees are easy to please. 

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